Creative Canvas
A signet ring, unlike a pinkie ring, traditionally has a flat surface, either smooth or engraved. For those looking to create their own family crest, Rebus, a jeweler in the Hatton Garden district of London, has stacks of books with family crests and insignia from centuries past that can be engraved in 18-karat gold or silver rings (starting at $380 for sterling silver). The jewelry house, which has a team of on-site engravers, creates monograms and symbols and will help clients to design their own motifs.
For the New York jeweler Kim Dunham, each bespoke signet ring begins with an online questionnaire. After learning more about the client’s hobbies, favorite poets and writers, and inspirations from nature or travel, she offers two to three design proposals. One of her clients, who loves theater, now has a ring depicting two columns, like a stage, with a Greek key in the center. For another client going through a life transition, she engraved a snake.
Made in New York City, the rings take about six weeks from design to the finished piece and start at $6,000.
In contrast to engraved or decorated signets, George Rings, a company in Portland, Ore., creates plain 18-karat gold signet rings. “We focused our attention on the genius of the shape, creating a substantial, solid gold masterpiece with timeworn curves and perfect proportions,” Chelsea Grimmius, a founder of the brand, wrote in an email. Over time, she said, the smooth finishes acquire a patina and give the appearance of a family heirloom.
Classic models also are still popular, said Suzanne Martinez, an owner of Lang Antique & Estate Jewelry in San Francisco. Vintage gold rings, some with a family crest or monogram, sell for around $2,000, she said.
In the United States, “the signet ring became popular in the post-World War II era when new wealth was being made,” Ms. Martinez said. During that time, she said, one of the most popular models was a rectangular ring with Roman soldiers carved in hard stones such as onyx or carnelian. “It was a power ring.”
