Good morning. Saltimbocca — the name translates from the Italian as “jump in the mouth” — is a dish traditionally made with veal cutlets wrapped with prosciutto and sage, quickly cooked in butter and oil, and occasionally topped with cheese for a run beneath the broiler.
Saltimbocca is, our David Tanis has written, largely a restaurant dish, the sort of thing you’d order in a trattoria alongside a bowl of spaghetti. But in his recipe for chicken saltimbocca (above), it becomes exactly the sort of thing you could pan-fry on a Sunday evening in the middle of February and find yourself delighted.
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Chicken Saltimbocca
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David makes the dish with pounded chicken breasts that pick up a great deal of flavor after a few hours of marination, so you might start your preparations after lunch. But if you’re rushed because you want to spend more of your time outside, or you have to work, you can use chicken thighs instead. They’re more flavorful to start with and much more forgiving of overcooking. (Here’s a fine pasta to accompany the meat.)
That’s Sunday taken care of. As for the rest of the week. …
Monday
I love Ali Slagle’s recipe for miso-mustard salmon as much for the charred cabbage that serves as a bed for the fish as for the miso-mustard sauce that adorns it. Make extra sauce if you can. It’s fantastic drizzled over room-temperature roasted tofu for lunch the next day.
Tuesday
The sheer simplicity of Eric Kim’s recipe for gochujang buttered noodles belies its intensity and deliciousness, especially under a spray of sesame seeds, some sliced scallions and a drizzle of roasted sesame oil. “I love this recipe!” a reader named Susan A. commented a week ago. “I make the single serving and full version all the time, exactly as written.”
Thursday
Vivian Chan-Tam’s recipe for hot-and-sour soup is powerfully flavorful, deeply balanced between sour and spicy, and possessed of a beautiful spectrum of textures that very few restaurant hot-and-sours can deliver. Make it once this week and it may well join the regular weeknight rotation.
Friday
And then you can head into the weekend with Yasmin Fahr’s new recipe for skillet ginger chicken with apricots. It’s a simple preparation with exciting ingredients — ginger and warm spices over the chicken, with white wine, plumped-up apricots and red onions that make for a flavorful braising liquid that’s fantastic with rice. Substitute dried figs or prunes if you don’t have apricots. That’ll work just fine.
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Now, it’s a considerable distance from anything to do with Bibb lettuce or farm-raised venison, but if you didn’t watch it back in 2016, or even if you did: “The Night Manager” is playing on Amazon Prime. Spiky, scary and excellent all at once.
Here’s new poetry from Andrea Werblin Reid in the Virginia Quarterly Review, “Expectancy.”
Some housekeeping: In Friday’s newsletter, I managed to mangle the name of Lee Child’s co-writer on recent Jack Reacher novels. He is Andrew Child, not Alex. Apologies.
